


Shetland, with its dramatic coastline and wealth of wildlife, is unique. Nowhere else in Europe is life on land so greatly affected by the sea - the cool, oceanic climate and salty winds stunt the vegetation of the islands yet the winters are mild for a land 60º north of the equator.
Surrounded by rich fisheries but with little fertile land, the people of Shetland have always depended on both land and sea for their livelihoods. Despite the development of the oil industry, crofting and fishing still provide employment for many of the islands' 23,000 inhabitants. Man and wildlife are both dependent on the well-being of the environment so it is important that we care for this part of Scotland's natural heritage. It is ours to use and enjoy, but we must also protect it for future generations.
Shetland's exposed position between the Atlantic and the North Sea, at the same latitude as St Petersburg in Russia and Anchorage in Alaska, accounts for much of its character. Some of Europe's highest sea cliffs bear witness to the erosive power of the oceans. Sea mammals and seabirds can be seen all around the coast. Inland, whimbrel and common scoter - birds of the far north - breed amongst vegetation typical of temperate regions.
Moorland covers about ninety per cent of the islands and provides an ideal habitat for birds such as skuas, dunlin, golden plover and merlin. Where better quality land exists the long history of crofting has added diversity to the environment and created the characteristic patterns of the islands' landscape. Geologically, Shetland is very much a part of Scotland. The metamorphic rocks of Mainland Shetland and Yell and the Old Red Sandstone of south and west Shetland underlie much of Scotland too. The geological fault that runs the length of Scotland's Great Glen also cuts through the islands. Unst and Fetlar however are visibly different in character, having Scotland's most extensive areas of serpentine rocks.
Most of Shetland, from the coast to the tops of all but the highest hills, is moorland. Much of this area is blanket bog whose many peatland pools support three quarters of Britain's population of red-throated divers. Dry coastal moors and lichen heaths add more variety whilst the serpentine rocks of Unst and Fetlar have wide tracts of herb-rich heath. This is a habitat uncommon in Britain and one which supports rare plants and birds including Norwegian sandwort and whimbrel.
The moors also serve human needs, providing grazing for domestic animals and peat for fuel. SNH has a duty to encourage the sensible use of this resource for the benefit of both man and wildlife.
At only 450 metres, Ronas Hill may be only a molehill by Scottish standards, yet a combination of high latitude and extreme exposure have created here an arctic-alpine habitat like that found on the highest peaks of the Cairngorms. Frost and wind produce a pattern of mossy terraces, bare gravel and boulder fields on the upper slopes of Shetland's highest hill. Alpine plants such as mountain sorrel and trailing azalea are at home in this harsh environment. With mountains elsewhere in Scotland under pressure from hill walkers and skiers this unusual habitat is all the more in need of protection.
Shetland's native trees are now confined to a few holms (small islands) and crags inaccessible to sheep. However pollen and wood preserved in peat bogs show that scrubby woodland once covered much of the islands. Given shelter and protection from grazing animals, trees, whether native or planted, can and do grow. SNH is working with land holders and local bodies to establish good management practices to protect and enhance Shetland's natural and planted woodland and where appropriate to encourage new planting.
Shetland's many burns and freshwater lochs are an asset to the community as water supplies, for trout fishing and water sports, or simply for their scenic beauty. They are also vital for wildlife. They are a staging post and winter home for migrant whooper swans and ducks like goldeneye and wigeon. They are breeding grounds for other birds like common sandpipers and mergansers, and home to fish like the scarce arctic charr. Shetland's fresh waters can fulfil all these purposes but only if we use them wisely. SNH has a part to play in advising on the care and development of our natural assets.
Shetland's traditionally managed meadows are a delight to the eye with a profusion of wildflowers in summer encouraged by a late cutting of hay. Late cutting also benefits ground-nesting birds, ensuring that chicks are old enough to escape when the machinery moves in.
Shetland's marshes too are often rich in plantlife and some are of particular importance as nesting sites for the red-necked phalarope, a species which breeds only rarely elsewhere in Britain. Throughout Europe, marshes and wildflower meadows are under threat from drainage and the plough. SNH works with landowners, crofters, agricultural organisations and voluntary bodies to encourage traditional land-uses which are so important in maintaining such aspects of Shetland's natural heritage.
The seas around Shetland support diverse marine life and provide income for many islanders as well as food for seals, otters, porpoises and huge colonies of seabirds. it is vital for both man and wildlife that we manage the seas with care.
SNH has its part to play in this. Monitoring of marine life and the birds and mammals dependent on it gives us a picture of the health of the marine environment. Our advice to local and national government helps develop policies for the wise use of ocean resources.
Shetland's coastline is long and varied, from towering sea cliffs to sandy beaches, sheltered voes (inlets), fragile salt-marshes and dunes. It includes some of the finest coastal features in Britain such as the tombolo - a beach connecting two pieces of land - at St Ninian's Isle and the sea stacks, caves and arches of Papa Stour. SNH works with land owners, Shetland Islands Council and the Shetland Amenity Trust to ensure that tourism, quarrying, coastal defences and other developments are compatible with the needs of this sensitive environment.
Poor soils, adverse climate and distance from markets have always restricted Shetland's agriculture. In recent times, government grants have encouraged agricultural improvement whilst modern transport allows produce to reach a wider market.
In the Europe of today, with food surpluses and dwindling natural habitats, the undeveloped nature of Shetland gives it great potential for environmentally sensitive farming. Shetland has been declared an Environmentally Sensitive Area so that traditional farming and crofting practices which benefit nature can be encouraged. Industry is essential for the economic well-being of Shetland, but must be planned with sympathy for nature. SNH as advisor to local and national government has a role to play in ensuring that environmental matters are given proper consideration. Sullom Voe Oil Terminal sets an example for integrating the needs of industry and the environment. SNH is a part of the body which monitors and advises the terminal on environmental matters.
When we see the devastation of tropical rainforests, the damage caused by industrial pollution in eastern Europe and the growing lists of endangered animals, Shetland's environment appears little affected by the modern world. Otters, seals and birds seem as common as ever despite moorland reseeding and oil spills.
Yet here as everywhere the natural heritage needs protection, perhaps even more so because Shetland is so special. Already in the past two decades the islands have lost their corn buntings and the call of the corncrake is now rarely heard. Oysterplant, once familiar on Shetland beaches, is now found at only a handful of sites. Even common gulls are not so common as they used to be.
People today are rightly concerned about global conservation issues but we must not forget what we have at home. We must act locally to protect those things that make Shetland special. SNH has a key role to play in this.
We can offer advice to any group or individual with an interest in Shetland's natural heritage - voluntary groups, land owners, crofters, farmers, local businesses - anyone who needs our help.
Shetland has a wealth of rare or protected animals and plants including bog orchid, oysterplant, otter and merlin.
SNH can advise on landscape protection, facilities for responsible access and the law to safeguard species, as well as promoting schemes to protect wildlife. We can also offer financial support for projects that we judge will benefit the natural heritage of Shetland or increase people's access to and understanding of the environment.
Access to nature contributes to our quality of life. Promoting responsible access, recreation and enjoyment is part of SNH's role. Visitors and residents alike take pleasure from Shetland's environment - the scenery, the opportunities for walking, fishing, boating, birdwatching and other outdoor pastimes. SNH will continue to work with local groups and organisations to promote sensitive and informed development of these activities.
We care for the natural heritage throughout Shetland but some places have special protection through a system of designations.
NNRs are some of Britain's most outstanding sites for nature conservation and in most cases are places where people are welcome. A few NNRs are owned by SNH. Most are privately owned and managed by agreement with their owners. Shetland has three National Nature Reserves which draw visitors from all corners of the earth.
Noss and Hermaness host two of Britain's largest seabird colonies with thousands of gannets, puffins, guillemots, kittiwakes and skuas. The third reserve, the Keen of Hamar, is home to rare plants. Edmonston's chickweed which grows here and at one other site on Unst is found nowhere else in the world.
NSAs are areas of exceptional scenic value - the finest landscapes in Britain. Shetland has one NSA which covers seven of the finest sections of the islands' coastline. Within these areas SNH is consulted over planning applications and other developments to ensure that their natural beauty is not compromised.
Shetland has over seventy SSSIs - part of a national network and chosen to represent the most important examples of habitats and geological features found in Shetland. On these sites, SNH works with land holders to ensure the conservation of their special character.
SNH has a duty to encourage understanding of the natural heritage. To achieve this we work with schools, voluntary groups, and bodies such as the Shetland Amenity Trust, the Shetland Islands Council and others.
Our visitor centre on Noss has been open for many years and a second is being developed on Unst at the Muckle Flugga Shore Station. SNH staff are available to talk to groups interested in environmental matters.
Understanding nature allows us to appreciate and enjoy it all the more but understanding is also essential for protecting our natural heritage. For this reason surveying and research is central to much of the work of SNH. Some of this work we do ourselves, some we contract out to specialists. Counts of seals and breeding birds, monitoring of rare plants, assessment of the condition of moorland all show us how well the natural heritage is faring and where we need to direct our efforts for its protection and enhancement.